Troubleshoot your HP Printer problems using HP Print and Scan Doctor Diagnostic Utility for Windows.
Electrical problems in an RV or camper are very common, and often RV owners don’t know where to start when they deal with them.
This article provides some basic information for the RV owner to help diagnose and repair electrical problems efficiently and safely. I'd like you to:
If you own or rent an RV, you will want to know enough to at least make a walk-around inspection before you go on the road, especially of the electrical system. Even a novice can learn how to inspect for problems, and determine if the problem is major or minor.
A major problem, for example, may be present when a refrigerator stops working, and you wonder if you should look into the wiring and propane-management circuitry on the back of the fridge or not. For the electrical novice, the answer is no; stay away from such repairs yourself. They are too dangerous, especially when they involve AC power or propane. You should always contact a qualified service tech for resolving such problems.
But a minor problem, one you could address on your own, could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker or GFI that has 'kicked out,' replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, taking an educated guess as to what caused the breaker or fuse to shut off, or checking the water in your battery.
So how do you tell? Before you start with any hands-on troubleshooting, keep in mind that safety comes first.
Please remember this when using the information below!
Before you start opening panels and messing around with electrical systems, in an RV or camper or at home, observe these warnings.
WARNING 1: If you do not know what you are doing, do not touch anything, and call your RV manufacturer, or RV Roadside Assistance company, or if at home, your local certified electrician. Remember, again, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!
WARNING 2: If replacing a blown fuse or resetting a kicked breaker doesn’t fix the problem, you should seriously consider backing off and calling your RV manufacturer's Service Center for advice before doing anything else.
Now—with these warnings in mind—here are some minor problems that you may be able to fix, and some diagnostics that you can run yourself.
Every problem is different, but before or after you read the discussion just below of the basics of your system, check the four sections further below on troubleshooting common problems:
Plus I include a section on terms and abbreviations that you may run across while doing your electrical investigation.
A modern RV contains a lot of built-in electrical devices. And along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry designed to protect the RV and its occupants.
Starting with the absolute basics, your RV's appliances can be powered in three different ways. Appliances may use any of these three power sources, individually or in combination.
AC power comes into the RV from your generator, or from the campground or other outlet you plug it into: a 20-amp, 30-amp, or 50-amp supply. The AC power control panel distributes this power to the appliances and outlets that use AC power, for example the air conditioner. The campground supplies AC power on two different wires: a 240-volt supply is split into two 'legs' of 115 volts or so.
Your DC power comes from a battery or batteries (like in the picture above). Whenever the power stored in the batteries gets low, the converter charges it up. The converter uses the higher-voltage AC power that comes in from the campground or generator through the 115-volt AC breaker panel and converts it to 12-volt DC.
The converter that charges your 12-volt batteries is often called an 'inverter.' 'Inverter' is actually the name for another device most RVs have that changes 12-volt DC power to 115-volt AC for use in televisions and such.
The 12-volt output of your converter likely goes through two 30-amp fuses that feed your 12-volt fuse panel. The 12-volt DC power goes to the lights, switches, and slides, and to the controls of many appliances including the heater/air conditioner and refrigerator.
Both electrical systems can develop weakness in many places, especially when being hauled around on trips. Any RV or towed vehicle vibrates in transit. And these vibrations will, at times, shake electrical connections loose, in addition to the wear and tear that wires and appliances go through in normal use. If a wire has its insulation rubbed off, or something inside an appliance shakes loose or burns out, then current can stop flowing in your 12-volt or 115-volt system. Or it can flow into a place where it is not supposed to flow, causing a “short,” and this excessive flow of current can burn out wires and appliances, or in the worst case cause a fire or injury.
Because of these risks, the RV will have breakers or fuses to shut off power if anything goes wrong:
Troubleshooting often begins, and may well end, with resetting a breaker, replacing a fuse, or resetting a Ground Fault Indicator, and then seeing what happens. Older RVs tend to have fuses; newer ones, breakers.
The fuses and breakers were placed in the system for two major reasons:
So a breaker or fuse going off is often a sign that something else is wrong: a symptom, not a cause of your problem. The problem may be easy to fix or it may not be. Many appliances have sensors on their mechanical parts that will kick a breaker or blow a fuse rather than allow the appliance to continue running in an unsafe mode.
Note that breakers can go bad themselves; if they trip too many times, they can suffer mechanical stress and lose their ability to stay closed at the current they were designed for.
A GFI or Ground Fault Indicator (also called GFCB) is a receptacle with a RESET button on it. It is designed, like a regular circuit breaker, to 'throw' itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit. Additionally, a GFI will throw itself if even a small amount of current is detected between the 'hot' lead and the ground lead of the circuit breaker. These specialty circuit breakers are required in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, places where the user of an appliance could possibly be physically touching ground through plumbing, metal, or flooring and using an appliance that is not insulated properly. They are life-savers.
If you find that several AC appliances at once stop working, or if AC appliances quit working but the air conditioner keeps going, suspect a Ground Fault Indicator. If the GFI detects a problem, the GFI-equipped receptacle will shut itself off, often along with several other 'slave' receptacles. Push the RESET button and see if that fixes the problem; if not, disconnect all appliances and plug them back in one by one. The problem may be a single faulty appliance or something else entirely. It's possible (though not the most likely thing) that the GFI receptacle itself is bad and needs replacing.
Don’t try to fix your problems by replacing your fuse or breaker with a higher-rated one. Your camper or RV was designed by professionals with your safety in mind, as well as your convenience. Each electrical device was installed on an electrical line that could safely handle the load.
Putting in a higher-rated fuse or breaker does not fix any problems. If you have a blown fuse, replace it with a fuse of the same rating, NEVER a higher-rated fuse. Because:
Always remember, the fuse was designed for a normal operational load. And if it blew, something has changed.
With these warnings in mind, below is a table of fuse colors and what ratings they indicate, in case you go shopping for replacement fuses.
Standard automotive fuses are color-coded according to their current rating; below is a short list for your reference.
Amperage rating (amps) |
---|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
7.5 |
10 |
15 |
20 |
25 |
30 |
A bad connection in the 12-volt system can cause failures of various appliances, including slides and lights which run on 12-volt power. A 12-volt problem can cause failure of other appliances and systems if they have 12-volt power to their controls. The refrigerator and air conditioner, even running in propane-fueled mode or on AC power, require DC voltage for their logic circuits, and so may fail to operate when there is a DC system problem. Problems in the DC system can also cause lights or appliances to go on and off.
You can so some simple investigation of the 12-volt system yourself, for example:
If you can find nothing wrong here, you may have a bad converter that needs to be replaced; this is a job for the service center, though the adventurous can read a little more in this other article about troubleshooting converters.
Another article of mine has more information about troubleshooting and maintaining your RV's batteries.
A multimeter can measure potential (DC volts, AC volts), electric current (amps), and resistance (ohms).
This device is very useful in the hands of a trained individual, but the novice should not attempt to use all of its functions until they understand what they are trying to measure as well as any dangers involved in making the measurements.
Klein Tools MM200 Auto Ranging MultimeterWhen my old multimeter died, I selected this one for its functions, ruggedness and ease of use.
The power supply that your parked RV is plugged into can cause problems if it is supplying too much or too little power, fluctuates, is not grounded correctly, or its connector is corroded. Too much current can cause appliances or lights to fail or blow out, and even melt wires or plugs; too little (in an overpopulated campground with an overloaded supply, for example) can cause lamps to dim. Your campground management should be providing safe power at the level they advertise, whether 30 amps or 50 amps; that is their responsibility. You may ask management to investigate, or check with your campground neighbors to see what they are experiencing.
If half your appliances along with your air conditioner are out, one possibility is that half the AC supply from the campground is missing (another possibility is a GFI going off; see part 1 above).
Your on-board or portable generator can also be the cause of problems; it may stop running if your vehicle's gas tank is less than 1/4 full.
Most RVs have a master switch for disconnecting your RV's power during storage. It is a small switch, often near the door on the inside. It will need to be on for you to get power.
Everyone in campgrounds seems to be purchasing surge protectors these days. I don't have one. If you buy one, make sure you are purchasing a GOOD one.
Your RV already has surge protection devices: your main AC breaker plus the individual appliance and equipment breakers in your main breaker panel. Like surge protectors, they kick out if the input voltage goes too high.
The only real difference between breakers and a commercial 'surge protection' device is that standard breakers are slow to react to voltage changes. A good surge protector should react faster than a breaker to voltage increases and kick out if the voltage exceeds the safe limit of your electrical equipment. Because low input voltages can also harm electrical devices or make them run erratically, most surge protectors will also turn the power off when the voltage is too low.
Now the problem with surge protection devices is that there are no real requirements or specifications for their design. You could purchase one that does not react fast enough to protect your RV equipment. Many of my fellow campers who had surge protectors experienced damage that 'fried' their breakers without the surge protector helping at all.
Anyone who buys one of these devices should make sure they get one that has a relatively fast response time, though it's difficult for a camper to tell how fast one surge protector is relative to others.
Once again, I recommend that you NOT mess with your RV's 115-volt power system unless you really know what you are doing.
But if your AC breakers or fuses are going off, you can certainly investigate whether your appliances, singly or in combination, are drawing more AC power than you want them to.
Remember that problems with your AC appliances may not come from your 115-volt system at all but from your 12-volt system, because the controls for your fridge and your air conditioner and heater—and other switches here and there—are likely 12-volt.
It's good to know which of your appliances use a lot of current, even when they are working properly. That way you can decide when and where to use your appliances so that the flow of electricity stays within the bounds your system can handle.
The table below lists the approximate MAXIMUM current drawn by common appliances in your RV. Most appliances draw a lot of current during a short period of intense use and less current at other times. These current figures are not exact and vary by manufacturer and model.
Current | |
---|---|
Air conditioner (rated 13,500 to 15,000 Btu) | Peak use when starting up |
5-8 amps | |
Coffee pot (maximum use, while perking coffee) | Once the coffee is brewed, the hot plate under the pot uses much less power, especially if you turn its temperature down. |
8-15 amps | Less powerful hair dryers might be better for RV use. |
1-2 amps | |
Food processor | |
7-11 amps | |
Hand vacuum (small) | |
8-10 amps | |
Microwave oven | |
1.5 to 5 | Depending on the size, the manufacturer, and the technology. |
11-13 amps |
If you are unsure what current an appliance draws, use this simple method to calculate the maximum current it will draw when working.
Or you can measure the current an appliance uses with the simple tool below.
P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage MonitorIf you suspect an appliance of drawing too much current, use this handy meter and monitor what it actually uses. This is a valuable tool for your toolbox.
Here is a list of electrical terms and abbreviations, along with a list of color codes for resistors. This information should help the novice be more comfortable with what they are doing when an electrical problem does occur.
Abbreviation | Tips | |
---|---|---|
AC | Alternating current reverses polarity and flows alternately in both directions in a circuit. | The voltage in your home is AC voltage, in the US typically 115V AC. |
Amp | ||
An electrical component that stores electrical energy, with a specific storage capacity | A capacitor often has a polarity and must be installed properly. The polarity is generally indicated by a stripe at one end of the part. | |
A device that opens up or 'throws' itself to break a circuit when the current through it exceeds its designed limit. Unlike a fuse, a circuit breaker can be reset when it throws. | ||
Direct current | Direct current flows constantly in one direction, commonly from a positive lead to a negative lead. | |
Diode | An electrical component that allows current flow in one direction and impedes current flow in the opposite direction. | Current flows from the cathode to the anode. The cathode end is usually marked by a stripe. |
A device that is designed to destroy itself or 'blow' when the current that passes through it exceeds its designed current limit. | A safety device used to protect electrical devices under adverse conditions. When replacing a fuse, always use one with the same current and voltage rating. | |
GFCB | Like a regular circuit breaker, the GFCB 'throws' itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit. | |
Ground Fault Indicator | Same as above | |
Ohm | The measure of resistance to current flow. | The resistance can be calculated using the formula: R=V/I, or resistance equals voltage divided by current. |
W | DC power can be calculated using the formula: W=V x I. | |
The size of a wire chosen in designing electrical circuits, which determines the current it can handle with minimal resistance. | Standard wire sizes or gauges go from 0 to larger numbers. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire size. |
Meaning |
---|
Farad, the measure of the value of a capacitor. For example, 1 uF means 1 micro-farad. |
Electrical current, measured in amperes. Current can be calculated using the formula I = V/R, that is, current equals voltage divided by resistance. |
One thousand. Example: 1 KW means one kilowatt, one thousand watts. |
One one-thousandth, 0.001. Example: 1 mW means one milliwatt, a thousandth of a watt. |
One million. Example: 1 MW means one megawatt, a million watts. |
One billionth, 0.000000001. Example: 1 nF means one nanofarad, a billionth of a farad. |
One trillionth, 0.000000000001. Example: 1 pF means one picofarad, a trillionth of a farad. |
One millionth, 0.000001. For example: 1 uF means one micro-farad, a millionth of a farad. |
Volt, the measure of electrical potential. Voltage can be calculated using the formula: V = I x R. |
Watt, the measure of electrical power. |
Value |
---|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
0 |
1% tolerance on the value |
5% tolerance on the value |
10% tolerance on the value |
The hundreds of comments below have explored just about everything that can go wrong with an RV's electrical system. Add your own questions and comments. But please, again, do not mess with any wiring unless you are sure of what you are doing. Electricity can kill.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
There is power at my RV's shore power cord, but no power at the transfer switch. There are three wires at the inlet, and six at the transfer. What's the problem?
Your information is a little sparse here, but I am assuming you have a motorhome and a built-in generator. The transfer switch allows external power into the RV electrical system normally, but if your RV generator is turned ON, then this is sensed by the power control panel, and it applies power to the transfer switch, and it switches over to the generator for power.
The power control panel operates using 12-VDC from your coach battery. So, check your battery and make sure it is full of water and is taking charge of your converter. Otherwise, your power control panel can act weird if this voltage is low.
And, there should not be anything between the external power connector and the transfer switch.
My fuses on the DC panel are hot in my 2001 Bounder RV. It is mostly fused in the #1 spot, and as I follow it across the row of fuses the next two are warm, then last five spots are normal (not hot). I have checked all the fuses; they are not broke, I have tightened every screw (none were loose). There was some arcing between #1 and #2 fuses. They were a little loose, so I squeezed the connection part (what you put the fuse in) fixing the arcing. Why are the fuzes hot and how do I fix it?
First things first; Arcing between fuses in a panel is very dangerous. That means there was a short to ground on one of the voltage lines. So get a good light and a magnifier glass and thoroughly inspect the board for any loose debris that might be there.
Then, find out what these particular HOT fuses are for and make sure each one has the right sized fuse in the holder.
Third, Measure the DC-Voltage on each fuse and it MUST be only around 13.5 to 14.5 Volts to ground.
Remember, those fuses are designed to blow when the current load on each line is too high and if you have HOT fuses your systems are not designed for this to be the case.
Once you know you have the right value fuses in each holder then you'll know you're safe and you can see about your DC-Voltage level situation.
Hello, I recently bought a 1991 Damon Challenger class A, my question is that when I try to use the A/C with the generator within 3 or 4 minutes the circuitbraker for the A/C trips and when plugged in whith the house electricity it does the same thing, but it last a little longer like 20 minutes?
First, you need to understand that your RV's AC unit draws around 6-8 Amps when it is running, but when it first cycles, the Compressor has to start up, and this can add another 3-4 amp temporarily, until it is operating. Your RV breakers and circuitry to the AC are designed to handle this load.
But, as an AC unit ages, it takes more current to get the Compressor running, as much as 6-8 Amps as opposed to the current needed to start a new AC.
So, what you end up with is a load, from the AC unit itself of 8-12 Amps. Or as high as 14-18 Amps for an older unit.
So, if you have other appliances also operating in your RV, you could be near the maximum load of your RV wiring which can cause your overall supply of power to 'sag' as this extra load from the AC compressor occurs, which in turn can force your breaker to kick.
Then there are your Circuit breakers. The breakers in your Rv are probably original to the RV, and over time, if they have been 'Kicked Off' many times, the metals inside the breaker can become 'stressed,' and the breaker can start operating at a lower current level. So, simply put your original 15-Amp breaker could be operating at a lower current such as 14-Amps.
The electric went out in my trailer. I replaced the male end on my main electric line because it was burnt, and I replaced the female 30w receptacle on the main pedestal source. The pedestal has power to it, but when I plug my main line into it, I lose power. When I unplug it and the 30w receptacle at the pedestal, it loses power. What is the problem?
I assume you mean you have 30-AMP service, not 30-watt.
I suspect that your power cord has a problem. The cheapest way to check this is to borrow a cord from another camper and then check if the trailer has a problem. Or, you could get a multimeter and check the continuity of the wires at both ends of the cord. If you're lucky, you just melted the cord wires together inside the cord. Hopefully, if you put the new connector on wrong, then the trailer wiring wasn't damaged. Be sure to check your trailer breaker and fuses.
I have a 2013 Somerset evolution popup camper. When we plug into AC mode everything works, BUT when we use just DC power nothing works. No lights, no switches, no remote for raising the electric roof. Can you give me an idea what I should look for? Battery seems to be fully charged by battery trickle charger showing fully charged. A load test was done at AutoZone showing solid and fully charged.
The fact that your camper's accessories work when your Converter (Charger) is plugged into 110-VAC tells me that your camper' electrical system is OK.
So, it then comes down to your battery and why it is not providing 12-VDC without the Converter?
The first thing you should do is check for loose connections at the battery.
Place a meter across the battery terminals while it is hooked up. If the Converter is working and the battery is low then the voltage should be around 13.5 VDC, if the battery is not charged, then the voltage should be around 14.5 VDC. which would indicate a battery problem. By the way, you did check the water level in the battery, didn't you?
2005 dutchman express out side running lights will notl light up
I have a 2000 Holiday rambler with the Ford v 10 engine and the battery is fully charged along with my house battery the only way that i can get it to start is i have to hook up my booster cables and turn on my axillary power and then when it starts i have to hold my axillary power button down the minute that i let go it shuts down.
My brand new rv seems to have an electrical issue, when we put the furnace on, the outside radio turn on by itself :/
Have a chirping sound from the ceiling. It's not the radio and the smoke detector is ok.is there a battery I should check?
Hello, I read through all of the posts before I decided to ask, hoping I would find the answer and not bother you with a question that you have already had.
My family and I (5of us) live in a bunk house, bumper pull mobile home. Has 4 bedrooms, with bunk beds in each room, 2 ac units on top, 3 window units, washer dryer, (110) and fridge, microwave... most common household furnishings. It’s a 2000 airevaction but I have never found that company. Has a 50 amp plug, a breaker box with 8 breakers, and the converter/battery charger. Recently we have blown the pole breaker outside, the one the landlord owns. We have alternated using various electriconics to prevent any blown breakers, overloads and that sort. After fixing the breaker outside, the receptical and plug (because they both melted).... we aren’t able to get all of our circuits back on the breaker box. Only the red hot wire will provide power, the black wire shows 2volts as does the common. The ground shows zero. Not sure where to look? Or what to troubleshoot since I don’t have any specs on this mobile home and can’t find any on the web. Any advice would be very appreciated. Hope you have a blessed day.
What would cause the LP to alarm in the rev if the gas tank is off
Hi our 2013 Winnebago sun star is hooked up to our house 30 amp . When I went to turn it on it shut off right away . Can’t find any brakes thrown , and everything works in the rv ? Does the air condition have a fuse ? Would it be in the fuse box under the dash . Thanks in advance
I have a 2016 Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel and I cannot get the awning lights to turn off I pulled the switch and the lights stayed on any ideas?
during this unusual hot weather we are having in south ga I have a outback rv and I can't run the ac and the microwave at the same time what could be causing this it keeps tripping the 30 amp breaker on my service pole
I inherited a 2010 KZ Sportmen Classic 14FKTH in a recent land purchase. I have no history on the trailer. I hooked it up to a generator, but nothing worked. Where should I start to troubleshoot?
I have a 2008 T@B trailer. the passenger side tail light does not work. The blinker and break lights. They worked one trip and the next not. The only thing that happened is I had wasps in there and I sprayed them.
My air stopped working my outlets dont work i changedtbe breaker and still no luck help its hot in texas
We have a 2018 Coleman trailer and our converter blew so we took it in (under warranty still), got it back but now the radio turns on with the awning light remote. The radio remote doesn’t do anything and the lights won’t turn on, on the awning. I’m guessing two wires got switched but I don’t know how to fix it back. I’d rather not take it back in since Camping World has about a 3 week turn around time. Any advice is helpful!
We have a 20170 Minnie Winnie our outlets in the kitchen side of the coach are nice working. TV in the bedroom works, microwave works. Checked breakers they look fine... any ideas?
I have a 2012 American Coach Revolution class a 42” diesel pusher with a 450 hp Cummins engine that when I started it the air horn would not shut off. I finally unplugged it as i could find no shut off switch on the air horn Next the computer would not come on and finally it would not go into drive. It will run but that’s all. Where should I start
My 1993 Southwind truck battery was dead recently after about a month of storage. I installed a new battery and it started fine and seemed to be charging normally. I checked many of the usual suspects to make sure that there was none left on which would cause the old battery to die.
The main switches (Aux and Truck) were off. No dash board light or radio left on. Long story short the new battery was dead about a week later. I haven't had any problems with the electrical before and need some help. Note that there are 3 wires attached to the truck positive post. Should I take one wire off and recharge the battery and see if the removed wire system is at fault?
This will take several weeks and may tell me more. Do you have any better ideas? Thank you. Tom Burkett
Turned on our fire place and it worked mt husband turned on the blower and it went off ! Checked fuses all looks good . Any comments on what could be wrong? Big Country 2008 fifth wheel Hearland
My husband installed new house batteries. After that we lost our informatio center. Not sure if it was related or coincidental. Any ideas?
I have a 1999 Winnebago Itasca was in the storage when I took it out the 12 volt system won't work now replace both axillary batteries still nothing the switch don't even click little run off the shore power
I have a 2003 coachman model c liberty edition yesterday i used a heater which trip all my outlet i went to outlet in bathroom but it was dead too no reset so i went and got a new set and installed it but all out let is still dead don't know what to microwave and fridge working fine.is there any other outlet please help me
We have a 2008 Cedar Creek Daydreamer 5th Wheel. We recently tried to move a slide and the switch did not seem to have power. It didn't even try to move....just silence. We checked breaker box and fuses inside trailer and nothing was burned out or tripped. Wonder if there's another fuse or breaker we need to check, like something inside a bin. Or any other ideas on the problem?
Newbie question.. I have a 2019 Sabre 36bhq that I just picked up last week. Two things are now acting strange.. first the stereo emits this horrid sound through the speakers like a bad ground sound, and whenever you plug in a device to the USB port, the light in the same room flickers.. Any ideas? Thank you
Josh
Hello we are just about to head out for our camping trip unfortunately the slide and the hitch are not running on the direct electricity connection from our home. Everything else works in the rv (lights, fridge) just the slide is moving and the hitch is not lowering down on the ball. When we are on the battery source then they seem to be working but very slowly ( Battery is not fully charged yet). But from my understanding everything sould work on direct electricity provided from the home. Could you please help??!! Thanks
I have a 2016 414 Fuzion Chrome, I moved to a spot that had a 50 amp plug for a welding machine. They changed it to a 50 amp plug to fit my RV. The first day my front AC starting making noise. The mobile RV guy said the compressor froze up. He changed it. It worked for a while and started cycling on and off again like the old one did. Second, strangely by coffee pot turned on and then smelt funny and quit working. Bought a new one and plugged it in and it quit heating the same way before it made the first pot. Last I woke up this 3rd day and my batteries are down to 7.2 volts the fridge is beeping and I have no DC lighting working. Also my propane detector is beeping. Could all these things just go bad at one time? Or do I need an electrician to test the plug and see if I am getting some kind of bad voltage from the plug burning stuff out? HELP!!
My son put in a new inverter in my jayco fifth wheel trailer now it blows the big in line fuse on the battery positive cable. I replaced it but it blows right away. I have power as long as I’m hooked up to ac power. My landing gear jacks won’t work unless I’m hooked up to ac power. Any thoughts
Thanks Don...I thought the converter charged both ignition battery and rv battery...yesterday I put the converter back in and started the generator...checked the batteries and noticed that rv battery was alls that was charging...so I misunderstood which battery get charged...
will this converter model stop charging once the battery is charged??
I have a series 6300A Model 6345C power convertor. Everything seems to work but the battery charging circuit. I removed the convertor to see if I could notice any hot spots or bad components but everything looks good. I ohmed out the bridge rectifier and it was ok. Any ideas as to why the charging circuit isn't working??
Thank you for your response. When we are towing it, we usually turn on the inverter so the refrigerator is on. When the 5th wheel is plugged into the truck the battery’s are fully charged. For some unknown reason when we have the battery’s on and they are fully charged the inverter button doesn’t turn on anymore.
We have a 2016 5th wheel. When we went to use it recently for the first time the invertor button would not turn on to run power to our refrigerator when the generator isn’t on and it’s not plugged into shore. We’ve checked all the fuses and they are good. What else could it be? Thank you
I recently purchased a 1988 aljo 5th wheel travel trailer, shore power works but not charging system, i replaced the converter and everything works the same except when i connect the cable that goes to the battery everything shuts off
I have a 1990 bounder RV, when i start engine all 12 volt electrical does not work.
please let me know what i can check
thank you
Hi your welcome good content is always good to read
Hi this is by far one of the most comprehensive articles about Motorhome (RV) electrics. I will use this a great reference point in future if i get stuck ! many thanks Eric Roberts www.batteriesontheweb.co.uk/blog/
Don,
Thanks for the reply. Yes I looked at it again. Switched two wires at the back of the switch and Bam. We are good to go. I got to get a better pic before I start pulling wires.
We turned on the main power switch in our Jayco Greyhawk mh the other day. Now it will not turn off. Everything works in the motorhome, the switch does not turn off the power and the indicator light stays on . What do you think? Do I need a new switch? thanks,Kerry
I have a 2016 Thor Challenger KT with electric awnings. I recently blew a fuse for awnings. While troubleshooting. I pulled out a pin on on the rocker switches that extend and retract. I ordered new switches and installed. One awning works fine. The other only retracts. Thinking bad switch soI switched the switch with the good awning. That switch worked fine. The bad awning only would retract again. To make things even more adventurous. The Rapid Remote extend and retracts both awnings with no issues. I’m at a loss. Any ideas?
Don Bobbitt
6 months ago from Ruskin Florida
Tom - As RV's and their Air Conditioners age certain accessories and appliances age and the AC in particular can become a 'current hog'. The Compressor in the AC unit will draw more current as it cycles ON.
You can try to not use certain other appliances when you are operating your AC in a very HOT climate to avoid kicking the breaker, but sometimes, it is more logical to consider having your AC serviced (compressor checked) and if it is bad, replace the AC.
Also, in HOT times of the day, unplug some of those other things you have operating like; chargers, fans, toasters, electric frying pans, and such to lower your overall current load.
Good Luck,
DON
A dirty condensing coil will cause the refrigerant not to cool down properly. This causes a higher than normal pressure for the compressor to pump. This causes the compressor to draw a higher amperage than normal. Before discarding an older a/c unit because it blows the breaker during hot spells I would check the condensing coil for debris. You can remove the cover on the roof to access the coil.
I have a travel trailer that is 30 amp and has one battery for an electronica tongue jack, when I plug the RV into a sure power source all the electrical components kick on for 10 or 15 seconds and then shut off and this continues as long as the travel trailer is plugged in, when it is unplugged there are no lights or anything with that work off of the battery, the LP leak detector does the same thing in concert with all the other electrical components and I have never used LP gas on this trailer Anything you could suggest?
A converter but only one of the plugs came on the refrigerator didn't come on I hit the ground reset fliptop all the switches and attempting to check the fuses right now I bought a few something to check and make sure they were okay and that's what I'm working on help please
I'm trying to figure out what I need or who I need to call or a problem last week my RV would just parked and I live in made this loud continuous clicking noise for a while and then stopped then this next week the same thing happened but then I lost all the power when I went and pools all the plugs check things out by my son I couldn't find anything wrong but it back in and it work but then again it happened and I lost all the power again I'm at a loss batteries aren't hooked up I'm hooked to a source have electricity and I would dearly appreciate some advice and what I should do next who I should go to please and thank you for your help
Hello,
My daughter purchased a 1979Cruis Air by Georgie Bay Motorhomes. It is stable in her driveway. She is in the process of getting the transmission repaired.
In the meantime. I was in there cleaning up and turned on 3 electrical heaters because the heating system is not blowing heat.
All of a sudden the electrical heaters went out. I have been trying to get everything running again but not have much luck. Now. The bathroom light is on and a plugged in lamp light is on.
Can you give me some advise on what to do first? I have been reading comments and thinking I can check the battery making sure it has water.
but if this doesn't work what's next?
We are first time motor owners
I might have hooked my batterys power up wrong and now i dont have power to dash or ignition or hydraulic jacks i cant get it to crank
I have a 2013 Excursion. When plugged into shorepower the surge guard gets a low voltage fault and shuts down the power when the battery switch is turned on if battery switch turned off all is good. If running generator all is good. Trippy
I have a 2009 holiday rambler and i was plugged into a 30 amp shore power and running the roof top ac, tried to start the onan generator and somehow blew a CB. Now no power to the generator control panel. We checked all the CBs that I know of. Any ideas?
Don while I was exercising I had an epiphany...I know there was a GFI circuit in the bathroom...there was also a red switch in there and it was turned off...I turned it on and I heard the pump working...thanks for the suggestion...
My water pump doesn't work with the switch. The pump works and fuse is good. The switch has red/white stripe on top, red wire in middle, and white/red stripe on bottom. I'm not sure where these wires go but may go to a relay or something. Any ideas...
Have a 2005 Winnebago Vectra. While installing new chasis batteries my wrench hit the frame and sparked. It blew a fuze someware. Where is the main isolation fuze on this coach and how do I reset it. Larry
I have lost the 12 volts power on my 2015 Jayco Precept, the batteries if fully charger, look like the contractor that supplies power to the 12 volt system is not closing when I push the switch.
Both of my cigarette lighter recepticals on my dash went out on my last trip. I was driving, had my tire monitor in one and a cellphone in the other. This is the first time I have had this issue. I have a 2012 Ford Fleetwood Terra. The panel lights and the radio are working fine. I checked the fuse and it seems fine (not split when I viewed it). I'm not sue what the issue can be. Would it be common that both recepticals need to be replaced at the same time? I have googled it, watched YouTube videos and can't figure out what to check next. If anyone has advice I would love the help. I already purchased a one new receptical but it doesn't arrive for a couple days.
our convention oven-microwave and EMS panel dont work.all lights work
i have a 2002 damon ultrasport lost power to one side of 30 amp breaker for transfer switch
Printers: Can't live with them, can't nuke them. You could always toss a misbehaving inkjet or laser out the window, but where would that leave you? Truth be told, we need our printers, despite their maddening quirks. Here's a saner idea: Take a deep breath, channel your inner tech support rep, and repair that which has failed you. (Cue sitar.)
We've listed the 10 biggest printer annoyances -- of course, your Top 10 list may vary -- and ways to fix them.
Problem: Printing is too slow.
Solution:Rev up printer performance--and save ink in the process--by reducing print quality for everyday output. While printer settings vary by model, here's how to switch to draft-printing mode in most Windows apps. Select Print and Properties, and then look for a setting that reduces print quality. With the HP Photosmart 8450, for instance, change the default print quality setting from Normal to Fast Draft (click screen-shot at right). Other speedup suggestions: Print pages from websites without graphics, and add RAM to your printer, if possible. Read 'Speed Up Everything' for more tips.
Problem: Ink and/or toner costs too much.
Solution: PC World has written a lot about the printing industry's sneaky practices over the years. To wit: They snare you with dirt-cheap printers sold at or below cost, and then stick it to you later with ultra-pricey consumables.
Based on our tests, we can't recommend third party vendors' remanufactured or refilled ink cartridges, which may not give you your money's worth. One cost-saving solution is to buy higher-capacity cartridges. If you print a lot, try an ink cartridge with a 250-plus page yield, or a toner cartridge with a 2,000-plus page yield.
Problem: Windows is sending print jobs to the wrong printer.
Solution: For some mysterious reason, Windows may select a new default printer--the one it automatically sends print jobs to. (This happened to me when I upgraded from Vista to Windows 7.) To fix this glitch in Windows 7, click Start (the Windows icon in the lower-left corner of the screen) and select Devices and Printers. Under Printers and Faxes, right-click the printer you want to make the default, and select Set as default printer.
If you're using earlier versions of Windows, these steps vary a bit. Here are instructions for Windows XP and Vista users.